Wednesday, August 28, 2019

Swinford revisited

On August 27, we had been home from Ireland for 18 days. Look what arrived in the mail on this date (not on the 29th as marked on the package)--a large envelope with a stamp from "Eire":



Here is the return address (it says, "From - Swinford 250 & More, Market Street, Swinford, Co. Mayo, Ireland"):



You may recall that when we were in Swinford, we stopped in at the offices of the 250-year anniversary of Swinford (aka Swineford). What we forgot completely is that we had given them €20 to send us an event poster. (We're glad we gave them €20, because it cost them €8 to mail it!) Here is their thank you note:



And here is the poster:



We saw many of these scenes, but not all. It just means we have to go back!

Tuesday, August 27, 2019

Field notes

You can buy many a book on Irish culture, Irish sayings, and what it’s like to be an American in Ireland (and vice versa). We thought we’d contribute our own small observations based on what we ran into during our trip to the Emerald Isle.

Accents and word usage


Being impressionable Americans, we found the Irish accent as charming as always, to the extent that after a few days, it was almost painful to hear other American accents in the streets.

Here are the accents and (to us, charming) word usages we ran into most often:

In Dublin especially, any word with “ar” in it was pronounced like a pirate: Put your carrrr in the carrrrr parrrrrk.

In addition to one of the door signs in our first Dublin hotel room, someone did tell us they’d done something that was “good craic” (fun, good conversation, entertainment). It turns out there are several types of the craic to be had; click here to learn more.

You don’t “line up" or “get in line,” you “queue up” or “form a queue.”

Although the word “wee” is still used as an adjective, it has become like “um” for many people and can appear multiple times in a single sentence.

If asked how you are, especially in the Republic of Ireland, an acceptable answer is, “I’m grand” (meaning “okay”). Things and events can also be grand. And where we might say “No problem” here, there you might be told “You’re grand” (e.g., the answer to “oops, I made a mistake,” is “you’re grand”). Alternatively, you might be told, “You’re fine then, you’re alright.”

In other words, there are certain circumstances where something can be both "wee" and "grand" 🤣

Many areas pronounce “th” as though it is just “t”: Cuh-tee-dral for cathedral, tirty for thirty, tread for thread.

You don’t have weekend plans to see a movie; you are going to see a fillum at the wee-Kend.

The f-word is often pronounced with an “e” instead of a “u.”

You can ask where the restrooms or bathrooms are, and you are understood. But the Irish call them “toilets,” or the “ladies” and “gents.”

Garbage is “rubbish,” and so are a lot of situations or people. You bin your rubbish.

The shoulder of the road is the “verge.”

An intersection is a “junction.”

An elevator is a “lift.”

Food


The big cities had all the food choices, and the restaurants were prepared to deal with allergies and other food preferences—although in some areas, oat milk was the alternative to dairy milk, rather than soy, almond, or coconut.

However, in the smaller towns and villages, there was not much choice at all. You could go to a “carvery” (usually at a pub) to get a slab of meat, with rolls, one or two types of potato (usually roasted and mashed), carrots, and possibly some cabbage. There was usually a pizza place, too, interestingly enough, and convenience stores that carried some hot items, possibly some vegetables, and really good coffee.

Almost everywhere we went, we saw at least one ethnic eatery that declared it was “open all the time,” but it was never open.

“Irish hot breakfasts” all over the country were poached or scrambled eggs, blood pudding (blood, meat, fat, oatmeal, and bread or potato fillers), white pudding (same as blood pudding but without the blood), broiled tomatoes, Irish sausage, Irish bacon (kind of like Canadian bacon), fried or broiled button mushrooms, and toast. The bigger city buffets also offered items with vegetables in them (e.g., frittatas), as well as fruit, yogurt, and even chia pudding in one place.

Most restaurants do not bring your check to your table, and even for the ones that did, we had to get up to pay at the cashier station. Some places had numbered tables to match food to table to check, but others had a map of the restaurant on their computers. When you pointed to the table where you’d been seated, they found it on their computer and were able to identify your bill.

Usually when we walked into a place for breakfast, we were asked, “Tea and toast?” We would say, “Coffee, please,” and even if a lot of our fellow diners were also American, the servers would look momentarily confused--and often had to disappear to a secret location to fetch the coffee for us.

No matter the size of the city or the quality of the restaurant, a “house salad” was so much nicer than the iceberg lettuce, three croutons, and two cherry tomatoes you might get in the same sort of place in the U.S. On the other hand, we were rarely given a choice of dressing.

Roads


It was weird (and often scary) to drive on the “wrong” side of the road. But we clipped only one sidewalk corner (although we came close to a few walls and hedges).

The roads in Ireland are identified with a letter and one or more numbers. The M roads were usually equivalent to our multi-lane freeways, and were often divided. The N roads were usually pretty good—they usually had one or two lanes in each direction, and they usually had a shoulder. The R roads varied all over the place, from being indistinguishable from N roads to being very narrow and/or hairpin-curvy (often with blind curves) and/or hilly, and often without a shoulder.

And the L roads. It turns out “L” stands for “local road,” but we thought it stood for “lane,” because that’s what we encountered. Our experience with them was that they were narrow dirt tracks, often very rutted, often with very tall weeds growing in the middle. We carried some of these weeds throughout the countryside in our rental car’s undercarriage.

Other observations


We’re not sure how laundry machines are arranged in houses, but in apartments, you can often find a combination clothes washing and drying machine in the kitchen, under the counter like a dishwasher. When the machine is in dryer-mode, it is not gas and does not vent to the outside—it sort of cooks your clothes (more or less) dry.

There was rarely a choice of paper towels in the public restrooms; usually only hand dryers were available.

We did not encounter any taxis that accepted credit cards, only cash. In fact, when we first arrived at Dublin Airport and engaged a taxi to take us into the city, the driver asked loudly and clearly, “Should our first stop be at the currency exchange, then, so you can be sure to have enough cash for the ride?” We earned points by already having the correct currency, and enough of it.

Speaking of currency, the Republic of Ireland uses euros, and Northern Ireland uses British pounds. Apparently some establishments are savvy enough to accept either, but we didn't encounter many of those, and the euros and pounds looked enough alike that we sometimes brought out the wrong bills. Much hilarity ensued.

It was interesting, too, that sometimes credit card machines would ask us which currency we wanted to charge in.

Ireland does not have TJ Maxx stores. Instead, they have TK Maxx stores, and it is the exact same place.

Ireland does not understand our gun laws. While we were on our two-week trip, there were three mass shootings in the U.S.: in Gilroy, El Paso, and Dayton. The Irish were aghast and wondered why it doesn’t stop. Of course, a fair amount of hunting goes on in Ireland, and so they understand why you might want certain types of guns, but why does anyone want or need an automatic rifle that has no purpose other than killing nine humans in 30 seconds (and anyway, would ruin a good piece of meat if you tried to use it for hunting)? We really had no good answers for them, other than trying to explain the power of lobbyists.

Related to this, Rodney (the man who showed us around Belfast) talked about the 3,500 people who died during the 40 years of the Troubles. We had a moment of silence in sadness for that loss of life, then pointed out that somewhere between 35,000 - 45,000 Americans a year are killed by firearms (exact number not known due to NRA-sponsored laws that do not allow us to track or study gun use in this country). Rodney went pale and stared at us in disbelief.

Photo by Valentina Razumova © 123RF.com

Thursday, August 22, 2019

That was then, and it still is now.

There is no such thing as the past, it's just the starting point of what we are living now.

There is currently some furor in the U.S. over The New York Times Magazine publishing an article tracing how slavery, starting in 1619 with the arrival of the first shipload of African slaves, powered the development of the nation. There is nothing in the United States that hasn't been touched by the stain of slavery.

Wandering through Ireland you feel much the same thing. The colonial oppression Ireland suffered from is foundational to everything about the nation now.  England "planting" settlers (many of whom were banished from the Scottish Highlands) led directly to The Troubles in Northern Ireland. Ironically, 1619 is the year the first walls were completed in in Londonderry to exclude native Irish (Catholics) from the newly arrived English (Protestants).

England colonizing Ireland and using Irish lands to pay off supporters of whomever the current king/ruler of England was led to the potato famine, aka "The Great Hunger." All of this and more led to the violence that created the modern state of Ireland.

But that's all in the past, isn't it? With The Good Friday Agreement, there is peace and prosperity, right? Yes, but it's all so very fragile. With Brexit, the Good Friday Agreement--and remember, that agreement is only 21 years old, barely in the "past" at all--is in danger. Why? Because the United Kingdom got hoodwinked into believing an imbecilic band of grifters who promised free stuff and no taxes by leaving the European Union, also known as Brexit. This has now culminated in Boris Johnson achieving the Prime Ministership of the United Kingdom. Here in the United States, people of a certain political persuasion are cheering Brexit, having proved themselves just as stupid as those UK voters by electing Donald Trump. Meanwhile bombs are starting to go off again.

But what haunts me most about our time in Ireland is our continuing fragility in the face of things we cannot control. The Irish lived off potatoes because that's all they could grow (and survive) on the land they were allowed to keep. The blight that attacked the potatoes caused the starvation because the Irish lived on that thin edge of one crop. When we as modern humans think about that, we might think about the tragedy of so many people dying, but that seems so distant, so far in the past. Meanwhile, people are dying attempting to escape oppression, famine, disease, and war by boarding tiny boats to cross the Mediterranean, or accumulating in refugee camps throughout the world, or attempting to seek asylum in the United States. We are allowing these things to happen rather than recognizing the profound effects of climate change.

Our little family could easily be considered climate refugees, moving away from the heat and the economic problems of Southern California to the Pacific Northwest. We sought an area we could afford, that was comfortable, and had a more assured water supply. What, other than the scale and severity of crisis, and the fact that we moved within the borders of our own country, separates us from Strokestown's Missing 1,490? Why was Thomas Gallagher welcomed to the United States, but Ã“scar Alberto Martínez Ramírez and his 23-month-old daughter, Angie Valeria weren't? What will happen here in the United States when, for example, Phoenix and Las Vegas become uninhabitable? Because the past isn't really the past, we know what will happen: cities and states will bar the migrants and shunt them into camps. We see it happening with the homeless already.

We live partly in the past because the past is the foundation of today. But we have to also live to build the future. We have the responsibility of leaving the world better than we found it. We are failing, but we don't have to continue to fail. And the first step in the process is learning what's broken, and what it will take to fix it.

Quinoa and a Proposal

Seeing a salad bar after touring Dublin, I made this connection.

If you haven't heard of quinoa, then you don't live in any modern society. Quinoa, the seeds of a plant in the goosefoot family, is a nutritionally dense food that has  "all the essential amino acids, trace elements, and vitamins" necessary for human life, and, most importantly for white women, "contains no gluten" (hey if you like quinoa, you might try lamb's quarters as well!).

So, because quinoa is the perfect food for folks who wear lululemon tights and athletic shirts, and who pull their ponytails through the adjustable band of their ball caps, naturally it means that quinoa production has escalated, and some quinoa producers are doing well. In fact, quinoa has become one of the world's monocultures, up there with corn and soy. Side effects obviously occur, among them the fact that quinoa producers no longer eat much quinoa, and because quinoa has to be produced at high altitude, and grows best in llama poop, the production has its downsides.

This brings me to a piece of economic/agricultural analysis published a while back by one Jonathan Swift. At the time he was seeing an oversupply of agricultural products in Ireland, and proposing a new market for them in the United Kingdom. He worked out the numbers, creating appropriate reserves for breeding, excesses for marketing, and appropriate compensation for the producers of this agricultural excess.

This excess obviously no longer applies in Ireland, because its excess capacity was reduced by a third due to exogenous inputs from 1840-1850. But there is no doubt access to protein-rich, non-glutinous, and certainly lean feed stock might be available from other suppliers today. I'm thinking Honduras, El Salvador, Guatemala, etc.

Monday, August 19, 2019

Gallagher

We bought bookmarks that include the Gallagher family crest and these words:

"Gallagher--This is the Anglicised form of the Gaelic Ó Gallchobhair meaning 'descendant of Gallchobhar.' This personal name is formed from the elements 'gall' meaning 'strange or foreign' and 'cahbhair' for 'help or support'. It signifies descent from Gallagher, who himself was descended from the King of Ireland, who reigned 624-654. The motto for Gallagher is 'Fidelity is my Glory'."



If you search for the name online, you will see histories of the name/family/tribe. There are some variations (for examples, see here and here), but they tend to agree that the first sign of the name was in County Donegal (the far northwest of the island), that the Gallaghers are descended from kings, and their motto means "Fidelity is my Glory" or "My Faith is my Glory."

Obviously, at least one branch of the family relocated to Swinford in County Mayo. According to Wikipedia there was an infamous Gallagher in the area: "Captain Gallagher (died 1818) was an Irish highwayman who, as one of the later Irish Rapparees (guerrillas), led a bandit group in the hills of the Irish countryside, armed with the Blunderbuss of the day, during the late 18th and early 19th century....Born in Bonniconlon, County Mayo he lived with his aunt in Derryronane, Swinford for much of his early life and was raised near the woods of Barnalyra (roughly the location of modern-day Ireland West Airport Knock). As he reached early adulthood, he and a group of others began raiding mail coaches as well as wealthy landowners and travellers throughout eastern Mayo and parts of southern County Sligo and western County Roscommon...Gallagher and his men raided the home of an extremely unpopular landlord in Killasser and forced him to eat half a dozen eviction notices he had recently drawn up for nearly half a dozen tenant farmers before escaping with silver and other valuables."

We saw Gallagher signs pretty much everywhere we went. Which makes sense, as it is one of the top 20 surnames in Ireland. We took photos of a few of them.

Here is a repeat of the photo of Matt standing in front of Gallagher's Boxty Totally Irish (a restaurant) in Dublin:



This real estate sign for Boyce Gallagher was in Newton, Cunningham, County Donegal:



Barry Gallagher was running for a seat on the Sligo County Council as an Independent for the election held on 24 May 2019. Despite (or because of?) the fact that he had stenciled his campaign "signs" on the sidewalks and sides of buildings throughout the Tobercurry area, he was not successful.



And, of course, we saw many Gallagher headstones, especially in Kilconduff Cemetery in Swinford. We didn't usually photograph them unless we thought they might be directly related to Matt, but this one for Joe Gallagher made its way into a wider shot of the cemetery:


Sunday, August 18, 2019

Famine

Ireland has a long and storied history of invasion, oppression, emigration, immigration, and civil unrest. But the Great Famine of 1845 - 1849, in which approximately one million people died of starvation or associated diseases, and another one million emigrated (and thus Ireland lost 20-25% of its population of 8.5 million; in 2019, the population of Ireland and Northern Ireland is approximately 6.75 million), is arguably the most heart-breaking and infuriating event that the island has had to endure.

We learned that in Black '47 (the year 1847), 4,000 ships carrying food products grown in Ireland left Irish ports for other lands, while over 400,000 people died.

It seems that many of Matt's emigrant ancestors left Ireland during this period--and it became clear that it was commonplace for "new" Catholic Churches to be built in these same years. In other words, the Church was more interested in erecting new buildings than in spending the money to help feed their communities.

An infamous story is of Strokestown's Missing 1,490. These are the 1,490 tenants of the Strokestown Estate in County Roscommon that were forced to emigrate in 1847 by walking (escorted by a bailiff) from the estate to Dublin, a journey of nearly 104 miles. If they survived the journey, they were usually placed on coffin ships--often bound for Canada or the U.S. 30% of those who set sail on coffin ships didn't survive the journey. But miraculously, no lives were lost on the Jeanie Johnston. According to Wikipedia, "Between 1848 and 1855, the Jeanie Johnston made 16 voyages to North America, sailing to Quebec, Baltimore, and New York. On average, the length of the transatlantic journey was 47 days. The most passengers she ever carried was 254, from Tralee to Quebec on 17 April 1852. To put this number in perspective, the replica ship is only licensed to carry 40 people including crew."

Here is the replica of the Jeanie Johnston in the River Liffey, which can be toured (we didn't get a chance to do so):



We did visit the Famine Memorial sculpture, commemorating the famine victims in general and the Strokestown's Mission 1,490 in particular. This sculpture was created by Rowan Gillespie and unveiled in 1997:



A closeup of one of the figures:



A man carrying a child:



A starving dog follows the group, hoping for handouts that never come:



This plaque reads, "'Famine' by Rowan Gillespie, Unveiled by Her Excellency President Robinson, Commissioned and Donated to the People of Ireland, by Norma Smurfit, 29th May 1997, ‘A procession fraught with most striking and most melancholy interest, wending its painful and mournful way along the whole line of the river, to where the beautiful pile of the Custom house is distinguishable in the far distance…,’ Irish Quarterly Review, 1854”:



You can recreate the journey of the Strokestown's Missing 1,490. This photo is of an informational panel near the Famine Memorial that descibes the "National Famineway"; for more details, go to http://nationalfamineway.ie/.


The River Liffey

The River Liffey defines, divides, and unites Dublin. Its source is in the Wicklow Mountains and it flows for nearly 80 miles into the Irish Sea. It is used as a traffic and commercial corridor, electrical generation, recreational activities, and it supplies Dublin's drinking water and water for industrial uses (e.g., Intel takes about 2% of the water for cooling). Although it is fairly wide, long ago it was six times wider, so crossing it was a challenge. Nowadays, 24 bridges cross the River Liffey, and those that are in Dublin have their own website: http://www.bridgesofdublin.ie/

Historically, the northern side of the river has been the poorer, dirtier side, while the southern side has been wealthier and more educated. This has been changing in recent years, with both sides' real estate becoming quite pricey, and educational and employment opportunities becoming better distributed. A joke we heard several times goes like this:

"What do you call someone from the north side?"
"The accused."
"What do you call someone from the south side?"
"Your Honor."

On our last night in Ireland, we took a Dublin Discovered boat tour of the River Liffey. The tour takes 45 minutes, but the distance can vary--if the tide is in, the boat can't fit under as many bridges. Here is our boat, the Spirit of Docklands, with the Ha'Penny Bridge in the background:



A pedestrian bridge, the Ha'Penny Bridge was built in 1816 as the Duke of Wellington Bridge. Now it is officially the Liffey Bridge, but everyone calls it the Ha'Penny Bridge. The Merchant's Arch is on the south side of the bridge:



This grated opening in the quay wall is where the River Poddle, which now an underground river, flows into the River Liffey. This tributary has a fascinating story that you can read if you click here (the 7:34 video included in the article is also fun).



We took a photo of Columbia Mills because we have some (unrelated) Columbia Mills buildings near us in Portland:



The Samuel Beckett Bridge, in the shape of Ireland's harp, opened in 2009:



Lots of construction going on in Dublin:



The Convention Centre Dublin opened in 2010. The architect was Eamonn Kevin Roche, an Irish-born American. The story is that he meant the building's design as a gift to Ireland, but he died (in March 2019) angry at the people of Dublin because their nickname for the building is "The Dyson Vacuum":



You can still find some old buildings among the new. We believe this was an Irish Rails Hotel that is being renovated for new use, but haven't been able to find a reference to it:



Getting artistic with the Samuel Beckett Bridge:


Saturday, August 17, 2019

Google Dublin

We left the 1700s of the Old Library (and the 800s of the Book of Kells) and walked to the Silicon Docks, aka the Docklands.

We passed what was Boland's Mill (located on the Grand Canal). According to Wikipedia, "There are two six-storey stone warehouse buildings dating from the 1830s, and others on Barrow Street dating from the 1870s." Several of the old buildings are being renovated (that's a Google building in the background):



The old buildings are being renovated as part of a project called "Bolands Quay" (no apostrophe) and was purchased by Google in 2018 for €300 million. The project also includes these new buildings, still under construction. They will be the workplace of something like 3,000 Google employees:



Google already has seven or eight buildings in the area and about 8,000 existing employees (this is their EU headquarters)--representing something like 60 countries. Facebook, LinkedIn, Airbnb, and other big tech companies also have presences in the Silicon Docks. Of course, all this construction has raised fears of "San Francisco-fication" and Dublin's housing prices are reflecting the changes to the area.

We went to Google's Gordon House, which is its reception building:



A closeup:



The waiting area in the lobby:



The roof has panoramic views of Dublin, from the Wicklow Mountains to Dublin Bay. Here is an angle that shows what was the Gasometer building (and is now The Alliance, an upscale apartment building), with the Aviva Stadium in the background:



Here we are with Matt's colleagues, Wanja (pronounced "Vanya," from Germany) and Lilly (from Greece):


Thursday, August 15, 2019

Book of Kells and the Long Room

On Wednesday, August 7, we went to Trinity College Dublin to see the Book of Kells and the Long Room library (aka, the Old Library at Trinity College).

Warning: We highly recommend the exhibit. However, the lines are long, so it is better to buy your tickets online in advance. The tickets are timed for every half hour, but it is still a mob scene inside.

Here is the 18th century Old Library building that houses the Book of Kells exhibit and the Long Room:



You are not allowed to photograph the pages from the Book of Kells itself, but you can take photos of the museum placards. Here's one about the illustrated alphabet:



Here's a peek at an illustrated page, borrowed from the Internet:

Photo from the Internet

Here is the Long Room of the Old Library at Trinity College, built in 1712:



Busts of white male literary greats line the gallery:



Circular staircase to reach the upper levels:


Wednesday, August 14, 2019

Wandering around Dublin

Just a few interesting things we saw wandering around Dublin.

"In honour of the seamen lost while serving on Irish merchant ships 1939 - 1945":



The Dublin Pearse railway station, first opened in 1834:



Pearse Street Garda station. According to Wikipedia, "An Garda Síochána, meaning 'the Guardian of the Peace'), more commonly referred to as the Gardaí, ('Guardians') or 'the Guards', is the police service of the Republic of Ireland":



We live near Lombard Street, so enjoyed seeing The Lombard, a bar, restaurant, and "townhouse":



Abbey Court Hostel:



We saw Apache Pizza shops throughout the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland. We were bemused by the decision to name a pizza chain after a U.S. Native American tribe:


Back to Dublin - Hilton Garden Inn Dublin Custom House

After visiting Monasterevin, we returned our car to the Dublin Airport. Our chariot for this trip was a Toyota Corolla "Luna Sport" Hybrid. It drove well and got great mileage, but it was too small for us and we had a hard time crawling into it every day:



We took a taxi back to Dublin and checked into the Hilton Garden Inn Dublin Custom House, which is right next door to EPIC. They have a very good onsite restaurant called Oly's--we ate one dinner and both buffet breakfasts there.



The Custom House was just up the quay from us. According to Wikipedia, "[t]he Custom House...is a neoclassical 18th century building in Dublin, Ireland which houses the Department of Housing, Planning and Local Government":



Our room resembled this one:

Photo from the Internet

The view over the River Liffey from our window (left):



Middle:



Right:



The lounge portion of the lobby:



Lucas, who checked us in: